working on…

… a Minoru jacket! I’ve worked on this for a while, hit a snag or a challenge, put it away, and then let it lie for several months before taking it out again. It’s not ideal to work on it in this way, since I have a tendency to totally forget what I was doing, and what changes I might have made!

minoru_progress2

I’ve been trying to figure out a way to avoid the raw edges inside the hood that I’ve seen some people have been a little less happy with. I honestly understand why the pattern doesn’t include a way to enclose this seam – it’s tricky! There really isn’t a way of finishing the seams together before sewing the lining to the jacket, since those two layers are sewn together right sides facing and then flipped around. I might try trimming down the seam allowance, topstitch the collar seam, and enclose them that way. This is making sense in my head. I’ll try to take some pictures, and I’ll share them if it works out.

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8 thoughts on “working on…”

  1. Is that a zip guard on your Minoru? I’m planning on adding one to my own version and would be super interested in hearing about your process for adding one! Also, I love that colour!

    1. Thank you! The purple color is actually the backside of a almost-black stretch denim, but I loved the vibrance of the purple inside! That is indeed a zip-guard, and I got the idea (I think through a link from the sew-along on Sewaholic?) from this post from Rocket sews. It was such an awesome idea I had to copy it! (and it came at the perfect time in my progress on the jacket too!)

      She has a diagram in her post on which layers goes where, but in terms of sewing order what I did was to mark the seam allowance at the top of the placket (since the folded over zip guard needs to sit below and not be caught in the seam across the top of the collar), snip off 5/8″ (= seam allowance) of the zipper tape above the zipper pull so it would start in the right place even when avoiding that top collar seam. After a bit of trial and error I decided the easiest to sew this on was to arrange the zipper pull tape around the zipper the amount of overlapping I wanted (about 2″?), pin the front overlapping to the zipper, and then sew the zipper and the top overlap to the placket with a scant 1/4″ seamallowance, starting and backstitching right below the 5/8″ seamallowance mark, *with the rest of the zipperguard extending upwards and beyond the collar*. Then I folded the rest of the zipper guard band down so it laid behind the zipper, and sewed again at my final seam allowance (it ended up being 5/16″, but pretty exactly 1/4″ from the zipper teeth since I used the sewing foot as a guide, butted against the zipper teeth on the inside).

      A couple of notes – I had cut out a set of plackets too short and recut a set at the right length, so I followed Rocket Sews notes where she uses an extra placket for the zipper guard. Mine is thus shorter than the actual zipper tape, which I’m not bothered by since the top is the main added function. I rounded the ends like she said, and topstitched mine twice since I’ve done that with all other seams on the jacket. Also, the two layers shifted a lot while I was sewing them on to the placket and warped and pulled everything, and I totally seamripped and did it again. If I were you, I would be smarter than myself and pin and baste the two raw long edges so they don’t shift while attaching to the placket. Lots of pins and going slow!

      Wow, this ended up very wordy – I usually do better with presenting visually, but I hope this makes sense and helps! Let me know if you have any questions!

      1. Birgitte, thanks so much for your detailed reply and for those links! I will certainly be referring back to this when I start mine! Looking forward to seeing your finished jacket!

      2. My pleasure! And thank you, it’s certainly great to see progress. Realizing that the lining is all sewn up I really don’t have that much left!

    1. Thank you! I think my next hurdle is getting the last of the pieces cut out – the cuffs and hanging loop. It will be a milestone to not have any pieces left to cut! ;)

    1. It’s a great pattern – it makes it easy to get a professional looking result! I only know of the issue of the enclosed seams from other bloggers who have made the jacket, so I figured I would have a go at it while I was still in the process of making it. Hope to be able to share a finished jacket within some weeks!

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